Category: surfing

Surfer’s Ode

I went to the seaside on one misty day And there, on a perch at a dip in the bay Was a cross surfer man with a camera phone He was tight lipped and grumpy and stood there alone. He filmed with that phone and he spoke with those lips He reported on wave sizes, wind, tide and rips. But sometimes he laughed…

The Kook Diaries Part 4. On biting off more than you can chew.

The ocean was glassy and inviting as I leapt  onto my 14 foot flat water racing SUP with glee. “To the lighthouse,” they said. “And back.” “It’s not that far,” I said to the husband, as we peered out across False Bay from Fish Hoek beach. “It’s like to the bridge and back at Kromme.” Right. Except Kromme is an…

Book Review – Barbarian Days – A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

The prose in this book is sublime, pure poetry in places. William Finnegan (author of many other books and columnist at The New Yorker) is a skillful, lyrical writer and his words are a pleasure to read. He is able to take essentially indescribable experiences and bring them to life with beautiful words. He achieves this in such a way that you, as the reader,…

Girl Power with Style: PE’s graceful ladyslider, Mia Baard

I happened upon Mia Baard when a couple of  amazing Cobbles Classic pictures and videos crossed my social media feed. I was struck, firstly by the grace with which she rides the waves, and secondly, by the beauty of Cobbles, the spot down at Cape Recife, just outside Port Elizabeth. I was keen to know how women’s surfing is doing in PE  and if it’s…