Category: traveling

The Kook Diaries Part 4. On biting off more than you can chew.

The ocean was glassy and inviting as I leapt  onto my 14 foot flat water racing SUP with glee. “To the lighthouse,” they said. “And back.” “It’s not that far,” I said to the husband, as we peered out across False Bay from Fish Hoek beach. “It’s like to the bridge and back at Kromme.” Right. Except Kromme is an…

Book Review – Barbarian Days – A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

The prose in this book is sublime, pure poetry in places. William Finnegan (author of many other books and columnist at The New Yorker) is a skillful, lyrical writer and his words are a pleasure to read. He is able to take essentially indescribable experiences and bring them to life with beautiful words. He achieves this in such a way that you, as the reader,…